Castara Retreats is the best place to stay – shells tinkle and hammocks sway at these six beautiful wooden stilt houses perched high on the bay. Plump for Fisherman’s Lodge, the original building on which the rest were modelled, and you’ll enjoy ocean views from your bed. Gregarious ‘Porridge’ and his wife Jeanette look after the guests, while able seaman ‘Duck’ and captain Michael operate light-hearted fishing trips with plenty of rum and a beach barbecue.

Discovering the ecological wonders of Tobago is also an unbridled delight. Newton George; Tobago’s answer to David Attenborough, takes us on a trek through the Main Ridge Forest Reserve; bursting with parrots, hummingbirds, spiders and, to our surprise, one very feisty crab. Typical of the Tobagan spirit, when he hears we haven’t visited the island’s Argyle Waterfall, he voluntarily drives us there and then decides we should pop by his village, Speyside, for lunch. If you find yourself there; head to Jemma’s Treehouse Restaurant. Trust me, you won’t regret it.

Perched above a proper Tobagonian fishing village, this hotel has everything you want from the Caribbean. The 16 rooms are gorgeous, with hardwood floors, shutters and verandas with hammocks. All have kitchenettes should you wish to self-cater, but Castara’s restaurant is everything you would want it to be, with jerk chicken and freshly grilled fish that has been caught by the villagers.