“Some views you can never tire of and the one from my veranda overlooking Castara Bay, on Tobago’s west coast, is among them…At sunrise, giant frigatebirds swoop over the azure calm of the Caribbean Sea, while yellow-breasted bananaquits hustle for space on the hanging bamboo birdtable; in the hazy afternoon heat, fishermen reel nets onto the pretty curve of golden sand, selling their catch straight from the boats; by night, fireflies glow, distant lights twinkle, the moon sparkles on the water. And all around the cloak of rainforest tumbles down the hillside to the coast, hugging the village, buzzing with the sounds of nature.”

“Castara Retreats’ 15 treehouse-style, self-catering lodges melt seamlessly into the landscape… Built of cypress and cedar wood with vast terraces angled to soak up those views, it’s the ultimate in rustic chic. The gardens are alive with birds (74 species have been spotted), guinea-pig like agouti scuttle by, and the sound of the sea lulls you to sleep.”

Castara Retreats is the best place to stay – shells tinkle and hammocks sway at these six beautiful wooden stilt houses perched high on the bay. Plump for Fisherman’s Lodge, the original building on which the rest were modelled, and you’ll enjoy ocean views from your bed. Gregarious ‘Porridge’ and his wife Jeanette look after the guests, while able seaman ‘Duck’ and captain Michael operate light-hearted fishing trips with plenty of rum and a beach barbecue.

Discovering the ecological wonders of Tobago is also an unbridled delight. Newton George; Tobago’s answer to David Attenborough, takes us on a trek through the Main Ridge Forest Reserve; bursting with parrots, hummingbirds, spiders and, to our surprise, one very feisty crab. Typical of the Tobagan spirit, when he hears we haven’t visited the island’s Argyle Waterfall, he voluntarily drives us there and then decides we should pop by his village, Speyside, for lunch. If you find yourself there; head to Jemma’s Treehouse Restaurant. Trust me, you won’t regret it.